Where
to Stay – Candidasa
The
small road leading to Pasir Putih beach offers a few good view
of rice fields. After passing the rice fields and a small temple,
a dirt road bends down through coconut groves to the beach. Apart
from a few small food stalls, the beach is calm without any tourists
facilities. The road was under repair at the time, so it may be
better to park just before the small bridge, or walk 1,5 km from
the main road.
Temples
with a View

Around
200m east of the main bay near Padangbai , a complex of three
temples sits on the top of the hill, with a good view of the bay.
The biggest is Pura Silayukti, that has a side door with peculiar
carvings of monkeys on guard. It is saud that in the 11 th century,
Empu Kuturan, who introduced the three – temple system to Balinese
villages, lived and meditated in this temple. At the back is spring.
Fifty metres to the south is Pura Tunjung Sari with its three
– roofed meru and three smaller shrines.
At
the top of Gumang Hill, the view from the Pura Gumang temple over
Candidasa beach is worth a visit. Take the main road to Amlapura
for 3km until you arrive at a shrine on the hillside of the road
with a set of steep stairs opposite. Walk up the paved stairs
to the top. It is one – hour steep walk with no shade. Once you
are at the top, the view is great, with a cool breeze and uninterrupted
stillness. Better to go in the morning with your most comfortable
shoes and a sarong and sash.
What
to Do – Bali Aga villages
Four
kilometres after Candidasa, a small road leads to the left and
passes the Bali Aga villages of Bugbug, Timbrah, Asak, Bungaya,
and Bebandem. Altough not as markedly different as Tenganan (see
below), they make for a pleasant excursion on the way to Amlapura.
Stop in each village and take time to explore the peaceful streets
aligned around the bale agung, or village hall, that is the centre
of life of the community.