Bali Online Information First and Third World in Tenganan2|

First and Third World in Tenganan

During the night, council members watch the bale agung where the village keeps its heritage: old coins, and scriptures bearing the a wig-awig customary laws bestowed upon their ancestors by the god Indra. In this imposing structure, which runs parallel to the main street in its middle, routine aspects of village life are discussed each night, and decisions are made for its development.

To be a member of the village council, one has to be born in the right place. Tenganan is divided between dwellers of the first and second street, who form its ruling elite, and those living in the third street, who cannot become council members - although they are associated to the village's decision-making through their own "parliament”, the gumi pulangan, consulted for major decisions. A man who marries an outsider is relegated to the third street; a w oman has to leave the village - a permanent move, since she can't come back if widowed or divorced.

Land or Freedom

With so many marriage prohibitions in a village of about 300 families, the choice of a suitable partner is limited. Some children are born with inherited defects, and female fertility is low. Most young people look for Mr or Mrs Right outside, especially during junior high school, at the risk of losing their status. Nyoman, a young local guide, explains these harsh rules by the need to keep control of the land: "If a woman marries an outsider, she follows him and the village loses the land."

For in tenganan, status means land control. About half of the village lives in the third street, but most of the land belongs to the aristocracy. Its members don't cultivate their land themselves, concentrating on more noble activities like making palm wine, the favorite drink of the god Indra.

Yet young people of Tenganan do not feel like leaving. “We always come back to Tenganan" explains Nyoman, “ there are so many job opportunities because of tourism.”

The Three Streets

The first main street is where the bale agung, or main village hall, is located; it is also where the most lucrative tourist shops are found.

The second street, parallel to the first one, is slightly less wide but still pleasant. The third street, on the eastern side of the village, is narrow and lower. This is where the village council relegates its members who have violated the law, contracted some infectious disease, or married an outsider.

walk around villag

many marriage prohibitions

Used for ceremonies