Fair
Trade in Bali
By
Degung Santikarma, with the contribution of john MacDougall (
Primitive in bali)
Farmers
and Terni tes
Once
a poor farming village in the hills north of Ubud, Tegallalang
is now a row of “art shop” selling brightly – painted carved cats.
Farmers who could barely eke a living out of their houses and
family temples, and hold grandiose cremation ceremonies for their
ancestors. Residents joke that they have changed from petani ,
or farmers, into tetani , or termites, living off the wood from
which they carve their crafts. Hired hands from east Bali farm
their ancestral lands – that is, what lands haven't been sold
to finance the building of art shops.

With
exports officially valued at US$1, 5 billion a year, handicrafts
are big business in Bali , giving birth to new social classes.
At the top of the scale are the foreigners – from the beachcombers
who finance their holiday by selling cheap sarongs in flea markets,
to the seasoned agents of large retail firms. Balinese make up
the middle and lower rungs. The local elites are the intermediares
– divers, guides, and “quality control” specialists – who negotiate
between Western buyers and local producers. Then there are the
Bali nese middlemen who buy crafts cheaply in villages and sell
them to art shop owners. At the bottom of the scale are the masses
of Bali nese producers.
Climbing
up the ladder
Success
in the handicraft ind ustry depends less on one's artistic skill
than a combination of market access and capital. Those producers
lucky enough to have inherited land in prime tourist areas have
direct access to buyers. Being able to afford an education also
helps; producers who cannot speak English are at a severe disadvantage.
It also hard for small – scale artisans to amass the capital needed
to accept large orders, as many buyers expect the producer to
front the costs of raw materials and labour.
grandiose
cremation ceremonies
centres around Ubud
fair
one tries