• Selling Last and Love in Bali
• What to Do-Kuta and Seminyak
• The Hidden Life of South Bali
• The Struggle to Save Bali's Turtles
• Jimbaran-The Bukit
• What to Do-Impossible Surf at The Bukit
• Fair Trade in Bali
• Ubud
• A Dance for Every Day
• Balinese Painters
• Ubud-What to do
• A Word of Dance
• East Bali in a Nutshell
• The Hidden life of East Bali
• Klungkung
• Where to Stay-Padang Bay
• Where to Stay Candidasa
• First and Third World in Tenganan
• Amlapura-Tirtagangga
• Tirtagangga and Around
• Amed Beach
• Planning Your Trip: The Best of Bali
• South Bali in a Nutshell

 

A Word of Dances

 Mountain lovers will head for the stunning slopes of Mt Agung. Lovely homestays and hidden resorts are found around Sidemen, which has kept intact the enchantment of Bali as it first enraptured travellers more than 50 years ago. Amidst its intricate rice fields and forested ­slopes, you'll find thousands of routes for trekking and a chance to glimpse inner peace along a mountain stream.

Heading west, the region of Bali attracts few tourists, with the exception of its lovely Pura Kehen temple; it offers great excursions in traditional villages and bamboo forests. Climbing above Bangli, trravellers can then reach Kintamani and Batur , which hold the best and the worst of Bali . The best is the breathtaking ­ caldera of the Batur volcano and its lake, the worst is a swarm of aggressive guides and tourists ‘ rip - offs, bred by mass tourism in this previously poor and insulated area.

Getting There and Around

From Denpasar or Kuta, the main road to east Bali goes through Batuan in the south of Ubud, and from then on to Gianyar (30km from Denpasar). From Gianyar, you can push towards Klungkung, Candidasa (40km from Gianyar), Amlapura , and Amed (30km from Candidasa), or head north towards Bangli an­d Kintamani (40km from Gianyar). This hinterland road ­ is very crowded; you'll need at least one hour by car for every 30-40 km, and double as much by bemo.

A new coastal “bypass” road is being built, which should eventually link Sanur to Kusamba and Candidasa. It offers fast driving through a dull coastal area, linking Sanur to Amed in 2h to 2h30min. In 2004 , the new road had already linked Sanur to Lebih . From Lebih, a charming country road heads up to Gianyar.

The main towns of east Bali - Bangli, Klungkung, and Amlapura and tourist spots like Kintamani, Padangbai, Candidasa, or Amed can be reached by Perama buses, or public transport from the Batubulan ter - minal in Denpasar. Other areas can be reached by be­mo, but it is easier to have your own vehicle.

important purification ceremony

wonderful cultural legacy

astringent flesh craved

offers spectacular ocean

attracts few tourists