A
Word of Dances
With
or without Water
As
its volcanoes cast life and death, east Bali is an area of contrasts.
Fed by ashes and rivers, the hills to the south of Mt Batur and
Mt Agung harbour endless green terraces. This is a densely
populated area rich in culture, museums, and temples, which has
supported the growth of the cities of Bangli, Klungkung, and Amlapura.
The upper slopes are covered with orchards, forests, bamboo
groves, and spiky plantations of salak - a fig-shaped fruit, covered
with brown scales, which hide a sweet and astringent flesh craved
by Indonesians.
East
Bali is also endowed with a quiet coastline, which lacks the strong
surf that makes navigation- and swimming - so difficult in the
southwest of the island. Like elsewhere on the island, the coastal
areas are the poorest. This is especially true to the north and
east of the main mountains: Mt Batur, Mt Abang, Mt Agung,
and Mt Seraya at the easternmost tip of Bali.

Rain clouds brought by the southwest monsoon are stopped by these
peaks, leaving the eastern slopes surprisingly arid. There the
volcanoes have cast death, and the burnt lava, black rocks and
yellowish vegetation - except during the wet months of December
to February – echo the landscapes of the rugged Sunda islands
east of Bali . On the upper slopes live some of the poorest people
of the island, surviving on a diet of cassava and suffering from
multiple ailments due to insulation and malnutrition.
Besides
boasting the most prominent volcanoes on Bali and its largest
lake, the east harbours Bali 's biggest offshore island, Nusa
Penida , flanked by the islets of Lembongan
and Ceningan . The few people living on these
arid limestone plateaus, beaten by dangerous waves, would be the
poorest of Bali if it was not for the income brought by seaweed
farming since the 1980s. A former penal colony of Klungkung, Nusa
Penida is also the feared abode of Gede Macaling
, the fanged deity who is the reputed source of
illness and evil in Bali .
A
Pinch of Salt
Fishing
is the main resource of coastal communities. But the coast o f
east Bali , with its lack of rain and abundant sunshine, is also
home to traditional salt panning, which can be seen on the coast
in Kusamba, Ujung, Amed, Kubu, and Tianyar
important
purification ceremony
wonderful
cultural legacy
astringent
flesh craved
offers
spectacular ocean
attracts
few tourists