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A Word of Dances

Below the Volcanoes

Captured by the spell of two generous monsters, the people of east Bali live in danger. Mt Batur and Mt Agung, the island's most active volcanoes, provide water ­ and fertile ashes to the bountiful rice fields and Eden-like orchards of Klungkung, Bangli , and Karangasem .

Once in a while, the volcanoes take back the life they give. The last large eruption of Mt Batur, in 1917 destroyed 65,000 homes. In 1963, Mt Agung, the island's summit, erupted for the first time in human history, killing over 1000 people and displacing thousands of others. The surroundings were suddenly covered in ashes and lava, leaving behind moon-like landscapes from Tulamben to Ngis.

This catastrophe took place during an important purification ceremony, at a time of political instability in Indonesia , and created a sense of dread and ­impeding chaos for a population attentive to signs sent ­by nature and the gods. Two years later, a failed coup d'etat ended in the slaughter of approximately a million people throughout the country - more than the volcanoes of Bali ever achieved.

Overwhelmed by History

East Bali is rich in the historical and culture legacy of the three kingdoms of Klungkung, Bangli , and Karangasem . Founded around 1700, Klungkung was


important purification ceremony

wonderful cultural legacy

astringent flesh craved

offers spectacular ocean

attracts few tourists

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