• Selling Last and Love in Bali
• What to Do-Kuta and Seminyak
• The Hidden Life of South Bali
• The Struggle to Save Bali's Turtles
• Jimbaran-The Bukit
• What to Do-Impossible Surf at The Bukit
• Fair Trade in Bali
• Ubud
• A Dance for Every Day
• Balinese Painters
• Ubud-What to do
• A Word of Dance
• East Bali in a Nutshell
• The Hidden life of East Bali
• Klungkung
• Where to Stay-Padang Bay
• Where to Stay Candidasa
• First and Third World in Tenganan
• Amlapura-Tirtagangga
• Tirtagangga and Around
• Amed Beach
• Planning Your Trip: The Best of Bali
• South Bali in a Nutshell

 

Amlapura - Tirtagangga

this site is also devoted to the cult of water, the foundation of Balinese prosperity. Surrounded by rice fields, the temple is set in the middle of a small pond ornamented ­with frangipani trees, with the hills of Jungutan beyond.

About 5km further, the road passes the village of Sibetan , well-known for its salak plantation . This small brown fruit, the size and shape of a fig, grows on ­spiky palms all over the Sibetan hills; it is sought after ­throughout Indonesia for its firm, sweet, and slightly , astringent flesh, protected by a brown, snake-like skin.

A few kilometres further, just before the village of Duda , a small road on the left takes you to Putung. Stop at Putung Restaurant to enjoy a simple Indonesia­ meal with a unique view of Candidasa, Padangbai, and sometimes Nusa Penida. Choose a table next to terace's railing to catch the fresh mountain breezes amidst the song of crickets.

Climbing in the Clouds at Pura Lempuyang

To the northeast of Tirtagangga, this temple is the pretext for a pleasant hike on Mt Seraya. First, drive or take a bemo to Ngis - follow the main road from ­ Tirtagangga towards the north, then turn right after 2km. A steep road winds up first to Pura Luhur . This lower temple, which is visible from the whole area, ­offers a stunning view of Mt Agung through a split gate facing west, making for a perfect sunset vista.

Cars have to stop there, but it is possible to go by motorbike, ojek, or on foot to the end of the road, I km further, taking in breathtaking views over the forested slopes. From this ­point on, a stairway climbs up through the forest, often amidst dense clouds, for about an hour and a half. The ­steps end on the small, eerie site of the modest temple. If you have a guide, ask to go down through the forest on the west side of the temple to Basangalas village from where a bemo will take you back to the main road.

surrounding verdant hills

simple bamboo furniture

including vegetarian dishes

bungalows built above

brick shops decorated

treks into highland

small road climbs

This lower temple