Amlapura
- Tirtagangga
A
Feminist New Year
Nyepi,
the Balinese New Year, is a day o f silence and prayer during
which it is forbidden to leave the house, work, or make a fire.
The village of Ababi has its own version of this event. Two months
before Nyepi, Ababi celebrates a Women's Still Day (Nyepi Wanita)
in Pura Kedaton - a temple devoted to Dewi Sri, the rice goddess.
Women are not allowed to work on that day, but stroll down the
streets in their best dress, while their husbands or brothers
take care of the household. “Actually, the women prepare
all the food the day before, so we only have to heat it,”admits
a local man. A month later, the village celebrates the Men's Still
Day (Nyepi Pria), during which the men take a rest.
The
small northbound road to the Kebon Bukit temple is on the left
side of the main road going from Amlapura to Taman Ujung, less
than l km before Taman Ujung.
on
opposite sides of the parking lot. The Rice Terrace Café
of Puri Sawah serves excellent local food in peaceful well
located above the water garden, with a set menu for Rp50,000 and
a great view of the pools.
What
to Do – Amlapura and Around

Travellers
interested in history can pay a brief visit to Puri Agung , the
residence of the last raja of Karangasem. It has two attractive
entries, with carved pagoda-like gates. At the Maskerdam building
(a corruption of Amsterdam ), two large photos of the last raja
are on display beside other worn and weathered portraits of the
past. Most of the rooms are empty, and the discoloured building
echoes the faded grandeur of the old kingdom.
Around
5km south the town near the coast is Taman Ujung,
the remnants of the first water palace built by the last raja.
The site would be pleasant if it was not ruined by a flock of
decaying bungalows built above it, and by ongoing heavy-handed
renovation which added a bulky fence around the whole area. On
the road towards Taman Ujung, not far after Amlapura, there
is a small Buddhist monastery or viahara.
The
road towards Pura Kebon Bukit (“temple on the garden hill”) is
a pleasant drive or walk. After 5km, the road reaches Bukit Kelod
where a smaller side road to the right leads to the temple. As
is often the case in Bali , the temple is built around a particularly
impressive tree, said to have grown from the walking staff of
a princess of Karangasem. According to the legend, she planted
it in the ground during a ceremony and then ascended up to heaven
with her child, who was believed to be the son of the god of Mt
Agung himself.
A
Fragrant Tour of the Amlapura Market
For
a bit of fun, lose yourself in Pasar Amlapura – pasar being the
Indonesian rendering of the Arabic word bazaar. The main building,
Pasar Timur (east market), occupies an entire block opposite the
bemo station; it
surrounding
verdant hills
simple
bamboo furniture
including
vegetarian dishes
bungalows
built above
brick
shops decorated
treks
into highland
small
road climbs
This
lower temple