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Amlapura - Tirtagangga

A Feminist New Year

Nyepi, the Balinese New Year, is a day o f silence and prayer during which it is forbidden to leave the house, work, or make a fire. The village of Ababi has its own version of this event. Two months before Nyepi, Ababi celebrates a Women's Still Day (Nyepi Wanita) in Pura Kedaton - a temple devoted to Dewi Sri, the rice goddess. Women are not allowed to work on that day, but stroll down the streets in their best dress, while their husbands or brothers take care of the household. “Actually, the women pre­pare all the food the day before, so we only have to heat it,”admits a local man. A month later, the village celebrates the Men's Still Day (Nyepi Pria), during which the men take a rest.

The small northbound road to the Kebon Bukit temple is on the left side of the main road going from Amlapura to Taman Ujung, less than l km before Taman Ujung.

on opposite sides of the parking lot. The Rice Terrace Café of Puri Sawah serves excellent local food in peace­ful well located above the water garden, with a set menu for Rp50,000 and a great view of the pools.

What to Do – Amlapura and Around

Travellers interested in history can pay a brief visit to Puri Agung , the residence of the last raja of Karangasem. It has two attractive entries, with carved pagoda-like gates. At the Maskerdam building (a corruption of Amsterdam ), two large photos of the last raja are on display beside other worn and weathered portraits of the past. Most of the rooms are empty, and the discoloured ­building echoes the faded grandeur of the old kingdom.

Around 5km south the town near the coast is Taman Ujung, the remnants of the first water palace built by the last raja. The site would be pleasant if it was not ruined by a flock of decaying bungalows built above it, and by ongoing heavy-handed renovation which added a bulky fence around the whole area. On the road towards Taman Ujung, not far after Amlapura, t­here is a small Buddhist monastery or viahara.

The road towards Pura Kebon Bukit (“temple on the garden hill”) is a pleasant drive or walk. After 5km, the road reaches Bukit Kelod where a smaller side road to the right leads to the temple. As is often the case in Bali , the temple is built around a particularly impressive tree, said to have grown from the walking staff of a princess of Karangasem. According to the legend, she planted it in the ground during a ceremony and then ascended up to heaven with her child, who was believed to be the son of the god of Mt Agung himself.

A Fragrant Tour of the Amlapura Market

For a bit of fun, lose yourself in Pasar Amlapura – pasar being the Indonesian rendering of the Arabic word bazaar. The main building, Pasar Timur (east market), occupies an entire block opposite the bemo station; it

surrounding verdant hills

simple bamboo furniture

including vegetarian dishes

bungalows built above

brick shops decorated

treks into highland

small road climbs

This lower temple

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